Female perspective was the perfect fit for Savile Row | Interview with Caroline Andrew

Breaking through in the male-dominated world of tailoring, Scots-born Caroline Andrew has built a thriving business in Mayfair by blending Savile Row craftsmanship with modern design to dress her high-profile clientele, writes Nan Spowart.

Through hard work, talent and perseverance, Caroline Andrew has managed to break through the male-dominated ranks of the tailoring industry to become one of the most sought-after young tailors in the UK.

Originally from the Scottish Borders, she now operates from a shop in London's Mayfair and her clients include Lord Stuart Rose, former head of Marks & Spencer, as well as fitness guru Joe Wicks, who commissioned her to make his wedding suit.

As a result of Ms Andrew's success, Entrepreneurial Scotland has now asked her to join its London board so she can help other creative Scots to move forward in their careers. "I guess because I have paved the way a bit I can help some of them, so they don't have to struggle as much," she said.

While Ms Andrew's talent was obvious from an early age when she spent hours using her grandmother's sewing machine to create her designs, finding her place on the tailoring scene was not easy.

She first did a foundation diploma at London College of Fashion, then was offered a place on its BA tailoring course where she thrived. However, an insight into the toughness of the fashion industry came when there was a call out for students to help sew on buttons for Burberry during London Fashion Week.

They arrived around mid-afternoon after classes finished and Andrew was still there at 2am, her fingers bleeding from prolonged use of the needle. Her dedication didn't go unnoticed. The American head of the company was so impressed she offered Ms Andrew a three-month internship which she combined with her studies.

The work experience was unpaid, so she worked in bars and waitressed at a restaurant chain to raise the £2,000 she needed for materials to make her degree collection.

"I did a bit of everything to get by and although the work that brought in money was soul-destroying, it taught me some really important lessons that I have taken with me into running my business," said Ms Andrew. "When you are serving drinks and food and taking people's coats you are often treated badly, so I try to make sure everyone who has anything to do with my business is treated nicely as it can really ruin someone's day if they aren't treated well."

Along with having to raise money for her materials, Ms Andrew also wanted to perfect her techniques and approached some of the older tailors on Savile Row to ask if she could watch to see how they finished suits.

At first, she was told to just sit and watch but as she gained their friendship, they began to share their skills and help her become more professional.

Yet despite her evident ability, Ms Andrew found it extremely difficult to be accepted as a female tailor at the established houses on Savile Row and instead found work with a tailor in the city of London where she become so popular with clients that she soon decided to branch out on her own.

At first, she began making suits in her flat but within six months had enough of a client base to be able to open her shop in Mayfair, 10 years after starting her diploma at the London College of Fashion.

Shortly after, she was named The One to Watch by Vanity Fair magazine, awarded Bright Young Thing by The Mayfair Times 2020, and was shortlisted for the Retail and Fashion Award, hosted by Variety Catherine, to celebrate inspirational women in business.

Ms Andrew has now just opened a shop in Old Burlington Street, which she shares with renowned shirtmaker Emma Willis. When they first joined forces, Ms Willis asked her how she had managed to establish her client base.

"I was really embarrassed to tell her I cold called a lot at the beginning, but she said she had done the same," said Ms Andrew. "It does take perseverance because out of 300 cold calls you might get 50 people to pick up the phone, 30 to book an appointment and maybe 10 who don't cancel. Out of that you might get five to buy."

Word of mouth then spread her name further until it became well-established in the industry. Now it is mostly repeat business with new clients coming from her existing customers' colleagues and friends.

She believes one of the secrets of her success is her eye for a fit. "I have a very sharp eye," said Andrew, who mixes traditional Savile Row techniques with modern, clean lines and the best of materials - many of them cashmere and Tweed from Scotland.

"I have a really seamless process and although I know the traditional styles, they are updated and I cut patterns, so the styles are more modern, more fitted and work better for today," she said. "People don't want baggy, boxy suits with lots of structure but equally a little bit of structure is needed to hide all sorts of sins, so it is about getting the balance right.

"In addition, a lot of my customers are high-net-worth and move at such a rapid pace that some of them come in and only have five minutes spare for me to measure them for a suit. I can do that, and now I have my own workshop premises for the first time, I am able to facilitate four of my tailors who are fantastic and happen to be women.

"It's a pretty big deal."

This article was written by Nan Spowart as part of the Herald Business HQ Monthly. Click here to read the full edition.